MAE WEST WHEN SHE’S BAD SHE'S BETTER

Here is an exquisite period gown designed by Paramount’s legendary Travis Banton and worn by screen sire Mae West in the 1934 Paramount film “Belle of the Nineties”.

The gown consists of a black satin full length V-neck period dress with ivory satin puff sleeves, decorated with ivory circular lace along front and sleeve caps.

Here is a close up of the intricate lace work that runs the length of the gown.

The rear features a beautiful train effect as you can see below.

The gown is worn by Mae West in key scenes in the film and in her role as ‘Ruby Carter’.  It is worn in the scene where West attends a boxing match and again on her return. Here are some stills from the film  with West wearing the gown. 

This is the original poster art from the film's 1934 release. 

The dress was worn a year after its use with West by Sarah Edwards as “Mrs. Myron Carey” opposite Charles Laughton in “Ruggles of Red Gap”. Here is a still showing the gown when it was re used.

This wonderful early piece of cinematic history came to me from the Debbie Reynolds collection.

Belle of the Nineties was the fourth of the films West made at Paramount. Based on any original story titled ‘It ain’t no sin’ and written by West herself.

Mae West is now known for her wonderful one-liners in films, which are still quoted today.  Ranked as 15^th in the world’s greatest female stars, she will always be the gal who you want to come up and see! My favorite of all her film quotes, is when an admirer complements West on her diamonds with’ goodness what beautiful diamonds’….Mae’s response….’goodness had nothing to do it dearie’…indeed.

GLADYS SWARTHOUT VOICE OF AN ANGEL

Gladys Swarthout was an American mezzo- soprano opera singer who had a wonderful stage career in operatic roles and recitals and who for time attempted a career in film and radio.

In fact Gladys starred in five films for Paramount pictures including Rose of the Rancho, Romance in the Dark, Give Us This Night and Ambush.

This amazing costume ensemble was designed by the legendary Travis Banton and worn by Gladys Swarhout in the film "Romance in The Dark" (1944).





The gown is comprised of a heavyweight black silk velvet long coat with large skirt train, ¾ length sleeves, front closure, heavy embroidery including beautiful gold bullion threading, faux jewels, seed beads, faux pearls and sequins. The design moves around the sleeve hem, down the center of skirt and lavishly around the hem.





Below are more detailed photos of the amazing embroidery work that went into creating this piece of art. The gown is very heavy. I cannot imagine the hundreds of work hours that went into creating this gown only to be used on screen for 10 minutes.





You can see small details below that Banton factored into his gowns such as the velvet at the neckline to stop the embroidery touching the stars neck.









The gown was later used in publicity photos on actress Mady Correll. The photo below shows the costume in its second appearance. I would like to think it was used again and again.

The costume came from the personal collection of Edith Head who for a time used these costumes in her touring shows on costume in film. The gown was later used by Ms. Head in her fashion shows to represent Dorothy Lamour in Road to Morocco" (1942).

The film, presented as an operetta tells the story of Ilona Boros, a peasant girl with a voice who becomes a pawn in the rivalry between opera tenor Tony Kovach (John Boles) and his business manager Zoltan Jason (John Barrymore).

They are both infatuated with the beautiful, but cold, Countess Foldessy (Claire Dodd), and Tony plans to make Ilona a star so that Jason will be attracted to her instead. The scheme backfires and both men are fighting over Ilona, the outraged countess left to instead pursue Jason's butler, Von Hemisch (Curt Bois).

In between the comedy, Swarthout, Boles, and company perform such well-known selections as "Because," from the opera Jocelyn; "Habanera," from Carmen; "La Ci Darem la Nano," from Don Giovanni; and Ralph Rainger and Leo Robin's "Tonight We Love."



Gladys starred opposite some very big names at the time with John Barrymore and John Boles in the film.



Gladys is the only woman to have sung for the entire assembled Congress of the United States and has also performed for the Diplomatic Corps, Supreme Court and the President on the occasion of the 150th Session of Congress.



In 1956, Gladys was diagnosed with a mitral heart valve problem and eventually underwent open-heart surgery. In retirement she bought a villa in Italy.

Gladys died on July 7, 1969, aged 68, in Florence from the previously diagnosed heart disease.

SUSAN HAYWARD FIRERY RED HEAD

The one word, which can be used to describe this amazing actress, is survivor. Starting her career as a fashion model, Hayward later travelled to Hollywood. Susan Hayward has performed in some very memorable films.

The first gown is a floor length sequined gown with matching scarf worn by Susan Hayward in the 1947 Universal film “Smash-Up: Story of a Woman”. The gowns for Susan Hayward were designed by the legendary Travis Banton who also designed for such film greats as Marlene Dietrich and Mae West.







The gown is worn by Hayward as nightclub singer Angie Evans and her problems with alcoholism. The gown is worn in a party scene in which Hayward begins the evening glamorous and sober and descends into a drunken catfight with co star Marsha Hunt. The gown is worn by Hayward during the fight.







Hayward achieved recognition for her dramatic abilities with the first of five Academy Award nominations for Best Actress that year.

The next gown was worn by Hayward in the 1952 biographical film of singer Jane Froman “With A Song In My Heart”.



The film was made at 20th Century Fox Studios. The film tells the story of the turbulent life of the great singer and entertainer.



The gown consists of a black silk bodice with layers of black tulle forming the skirt. Long see through sleeves complete the costume. Hayward can be seen wearing the costume in a nightclub scene with co star David Wayne.







There is a tradition in Hollywood when it comes to film costumes and props, which is to reuse. The sad realisation for many film costumes is that they no longer exist due to many costume pieces having been cut, changed, even dyed a different color for reuse in later productions. Whilst this costume remained relatively unchanged, it appeared again in another Fox film in 1956 being “The Man In The Gray Flannel Suit”. Actress Ann Harding wore the costume in the film with the Peter Pan collar removed. Harding starred opposite Fredric March in the film.





Costumes were designed for Susan Hayward by Charles Le Maire. Hayward was also nominated for best actress that year for her portrayal.



The final piece is worn by Hayward in the historical retelling of the life of President Andrew Jackson. The film was called “The President’s Lady” and was made by 20th Century Fox studios in 1953. Hayward portrayed the wife of President Jackson who was played by Charlton Heston.







Below is a costume test showing Hayward in costume with indication of "wrong shoes".



The costumes for the film were deigned by Charles LeMaire and Renie.

Hayward died at age 57 on March 14, 1975, of pneumonia-related complications of brain cancer. There has always been speculation that she was exposed to radioactive fallout from atomic bomb tests while making “The Conqueror” with John Wayne.

Susan Hayward is and always will be, a true star in every sense of the word.